Fashioned fabric, hosiery, and method of production



S. C. MACK May 16, 1950 FASHIONED FABRIC, HOSIERY, AND METHOD OFPRODUCTION Filed Sept. 12, 1946 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 KEY To mas 0 no noon onNEEDLE.

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HTTORNEV Patented May 16, 1950 UNITED STATES TENT OFFICE FASHIONEDFABRIC, HOSIERY, AND METHOD OF PRODUCTION ration of New York ApplicationSeptember 12, 1946, Serial No. 636,445

13 Claims.

My invention is an improved method of narrowing and fashioning knitfabrics and the product thereof, which are particularly suitable for useas blanks for hosiery.

In practicing my invention, a web composed of loops arranged in regularwales and courses may be knit in any usual manner, and in accordancewith my invention is narrowed coursewise by overlapping loops ofnumerous pairs of adjoining wales so as to form a substantially straightcoursewise row of adjoining marks each composed of a pair of overlappedloops; the mark centers being spaced coursewise from one anothersubstantially the same distance that the centers of individual loopswere originally spaced from one another. The loops of each pair are heldoverlapped and the pairs are positioned in proximate, juxtaposedrelation to one another by drawing a row of holding loops simultaneouslythrough the pairs of gathered loops, thereby materially reducing thelength of the course without appreciably puckering the adjacent webarea. Knitting may be thereafter continued in any usual manner to form afurther web section, such as a foot section, or to provide ravelingcourses or seaming courses if the narrowing is required at a terminal ofthe web, as, for instance, at the terminals of heel tabs or at the pointof the toe of a stocking blank.

My invention may be conveniently practiced on a conventionalfull-fashioned knitting machine having a row or bank of en masse movableknitting needles and narrowing combs comprising groups of points movablecoursewise into alignment with needles and lengthwise of the needles tolift loops therefrom or deposit loops thereon.

In practicing my invention on such a machine, a comb containing a groupof narrowing points is shifted coursewise step by step along the bank ofknitting needles and in the same direction into alignment with loopedknitting needles so that each successive coursewise movement to the combbrings its leading point into alignment with a different looped needle.Between each coursewise movement, the points are dipped and elevated toreciprocate them along the lengths of the needles and lift loops fromthe needles by one reciprocation and deposit loops on the needles by thenext reciprocation of the points. As a loop is lifted from each newneedle, the marks formed by the previous overlapping of loops aresimultaneously lifted from their needles and all of the lifted loops aresimultaneously shifted coursewise one needle and redeposited so that thesingle loop on the end (Cl. (id-187) a loop and the overlapped loops ofthe remainin points are deposited on needles which were emptied in-theprevious loop lifting operation.

Consequently two more loops are lifted by the points after a shift thanwere deposited by the points immediately before that shift, viz., afterthe next preceding shift, and the number of needles from which loops aresuccessively liftedby the points vary in an arithmetical progression,via, one needle, two needles, three needles, four needles, etc.

The principles and characteristic features of my invention, and themanner of practicing my improved method, and of making, constructing andusing my improved fabric will further appear from the accompanyingdrawings and the following description explaining the best mode in whichI have contemplated applying such principles.

In the drawings, Fig. l is a somewhat diagrammatic elevation of a singleunit stocking embodying my invention; Fig. 2 illustrates diagrammaticalythe shaping of the heel portion of a single unit hosiery blank by thecoursewise narrowing of such blank in accordance with my invention; Fig.3 is a fragmentary diagrammatic plan view of a foot section of a singleunit hosiery blank from which the stocking of Fig. 1 was made; Fig. 4 is,a diagrammatic plan View of the heel tabs and adjacent portion of a legblank for making a two-unit stocking; Fig. 5 is a key to the symbolsused in Fig. 6 to indicate the numbers of loops on the respectiveneedles; Fig. 6 illustrates diagrammatically part of a row of knittingneedles arranged in a conventionally operable bar anda group ofnarrowing points and indicates the lift- Ling, coursewise shifting, anddeposit of yarn loops on such needles the practice of my invention;Figs. '7 to 12 illustrate diagrammatically the approximate positions theloops of the narrowed course would occupy if the needles were withdrawnfrom the loops after the various narrowing steps indicated in Fig. 6;and Fig. 13 illustrates diagrammatically the narrowed courses andadjacent courses of the blanks of Figs. 1 to 4 inclusive.

Since my invention is of primary utility in the knitting of hosieryblanks and in connection with the fashioning of heel and toe sections ofsuch blanks, I have illustrated my invention in connection with themaking of, and as embodied in,

0 full-fashioned hosiery, which may be knit by the single carrier systemor three carrier system and generally in any ofthe well-known Ways formanufacturing hosiery of the single unit type or of the multiple unittype, -.as-modified by the narpoint is deposited on a needle alreadycontaining rowing of my invention. In Figs. 1-3 of the drawing I haveillustrated the embodiment of my invention in a single unit stockinghaving a fashioned leg section I, a. reenforced heel section 2, areenforced sole section 3, and a reenforced toe section 4., and in Fig.4 I have illustrated the embodiment of my invention in the terminalportions of the heel tabs of a leg blank which is to be topped. onto afooter machine for making a foot section of a two unit stocking.

The blanks for single unit stockings maybe conveniently knitted onconventional full-fashioned knitting machines having attachments forwidening out and reenforclng portions 5 of the blank to form a heelpocket, as described, for example, in Letters Patent of the UnitedStates method of widening out the blank to form-a heel portion may beemployed. When a single unit blank has been widened out to the maximumwidth desired, at, say, the point 5, Fig. 2, a number of courses ofsuchwidth are knitted sufiicient to provide the requisite fabric for a heelpocket. Such number of courses required will, of course, vary widelywith the size and type of the stocking.

It has been usual practice to gradually taper inward the widened outheel sections by narrowlngs forming rows of marks extending walewise oithe fabric and parallel with the selvedge edges thereof, therebyincorporating in the instep section a series of coursesgreatly in excessof those required by the contour of the human foot and tending to causewrinkling at the instep when the stocking'is worn.

In accordance with my invention the widened out heel portion is knit itsmaximum width for a suitable length and is then abruptly narrowed alonga somewhat loose terminal course 25 by narrowings forming rows of marksextending coursewise, and along substantially straight lines extendingsubstantially from the selvage edges on the opposite sides of the blankinward to the inner edges of the reenforced heel area.

This abrupt narrowing of the terminal course :5 curves the widened outheel portion from the shape indicated approximately by the full sideline of Fig. 2 to the shape indicated approximately by the curved dashline of Fig. 2 and curves the selvage wales sharply inward and curves.the inner wales to a progressively diminishing degree.

When the loose terminal course 25 is sufilciently narrowed, a newcourseor holding course .is interknit therewith and the knitting of thefoot continued in the usual manner until the loose terminal course 25aof the toe is reached. This is narrowed in the same manner as the course25 and finished "off by a finishing course or courses 26a and anydesired r-aveling courses or seaming courses.

Two unit stockings knit in any usual manner may have my inventionembodied in the toes thereof in the same manner as in single unitstockings and in the terminal courses of the heel tabs as indicated inFig. 4, wherein 25b indicates narrowed loose courses at the ends of theheel tabs and 2572 indicates holding courses similar to the courses 25and 26 and effecting a fashioning and curving of the selvages :and walessimilar to that in the reenforced widened heel section of Fig. 2.

The fashioning of knit fabric in accordance with my invention bynarrowing a course, such as 25, 25a or 25b, is diagrammaticallyillustrated in Figs. 5 to 14, inclusive. As indicated diagrammaticallyin these figures of the drawings, after a web has been knit by means ofan en masse movable bank of needles 10, H, l2, [3, M, [5, I6, I1, I23,I9, of a fulliashioned knitting machine to a point where narrowing isdesired Or required, and the loops a, b, d, f, h, i, 7'. forming part ofthe fell row of loops of the fabric are on the respective needles IE toI53 inclusive, as shown in row A of Fig. 6, and the loops are disposedas in Fig. 7, the course is narrowed by means of a series of narrowingpoints 2!], 2i, 22, 23, 24, such as the ordinary narrowing comb of alull-fashioned knitting machine. The comb may be operated manually butis preferably operated by a 2:; suitably timed mechanism for impartingto the Nos. 2,298,302 or 2,402,200. Any other suitable narrowing pointsa sequence of movements in a co nsewise direction'along the needles 50!9 and a sequence of movements transverse thereto and rectilineally ofthe length of the needles. Each coursewise shift of the narrowing pointsis 'followed'by a vertical reciprocation of the narrowing points, andsuch reciprocations alternately lift a "loop or'loops from the needlesand deposit the picked up loop or loops on other needles spacedcoursewise from the needle or needles from which the loop or loops werelifted.

Each alternate coursewise shift brings into ooaction with a loopedneedle an additional narrowing point of the roup.

As illustrated in line A of Fig. "3, the narrowing'point 20 has beenshifted leftward from beyond the active bank. of needles l0 to 19 intoalignment with a looped needle M at o adjacent to a salvage of thefabric being knit. Upon alignment of the point as with the needle l0 asa result of this coursewise shift, the point 29 is dipped along theneedle !0 within the fell loop a, and is then raised to lift the loop aclear of the needle it. The comb on which the points are mounted is thenshifted leftward coursewise a distance of one needle to bring the point20, with the loop a. thereon, into registration with the needle H andthe point 25) is then dipped to deposit the loop a on the needle .liover the loop b thereon, as indicated in'row B of Fig. 6, so that if theneedle 9! were removed, the loops a and 'b would be overlapped, asindicated in'Fig. 8.

The point is raised to clear the loops on the needle H, and the comb isagain shifted coursewise leftward a distance of one needle to bring thepoint 253 into alignment with the looped needie I? and to bring anadditional point 2! into alignment with the double looped needle H', as

shown in line C of Fig. 5. The comb is then dipped to move the point2%!- along the needle 12 within the loop c and to move the point 2!along the needle ll within the loops a and b. The comb is then raised tocause the points 20 and 2! to pick up and lift the loops c, b, a,engaged thereby and clear the needles H and 12. The comb is then againshifted coursewise leftward a distance of one needle to bring points 20and 2! into alignment with the respective needles 5 and i2, and the combis dipped to deposit the loop 0 ore;- the loop (I on the needle and todeposit the loops (1 and b on the vacant needle l2, as shown on line of.Fig. 6, so that if t e needles i3 and 52 were removed, the overlappedloops 0 and d. would "form a gathered group in juxtaposition to thepreviously gathered group formed by the'loops a and b, as indicated inFig. 9.

The comb is again raised to free the points from the loops and shiftedcoursewise leftward a disthe point 2| into alignment with the doublelooped needle l3, and to bring a point 22 into action in alignment withthe double looped needle I2, as indicated in line E of Fig. 6. The combis then dipped to move the points 20, 2! and 22 along the respectiveneedles l4, I3 and. 12, re spectively, within the loop 6, the loop groupd, c and the loop group, b, a. The comb is then raised to cause thepoints 2'0, 2! and 22 to pick up the respective loops engaged therebyand lift them clear of the needles I 4, l3 and I2. The comb is againshifted coursewise leftward a distance of, one needle to bring the point20 into alignment with the needle IE, to bring the point 2i intoalignment with the needle l4, and to bring the point 22 into alignmentwith the needle IS. The comb is then dipped to move the points 20, 2!and 22 along the needles M, [5 and I3 to de posit the loop e from thepoint 29 over the loop on the needle 55, to deposit the loops (1 and con the vacant needle l4, and to deposit the loops 1), a on the vacantneedle l3, as indicated in line F of Fig. 6, so that if the needles wereremoved the loops a to would form three consecutive gathered groups ofloops, as indicated in Fig. 10.

The comb is again raised to cause the points to clear the depositedloops and shifted coursewise leftward one needle to bring the point 2!!into alignment with the looped needle 16, to bring the point 2| intoalignment with the double looped needle Hi, to bring the point 22 intoalignment with the double looped needle M, and to bring a point 23 intocoactive position in alignment with the needle I3, as indicated in lineG of Fig. 6. The comb is then dipped to move the points 28-43 lengthwisealong the lengths of the respective needles lfi-IS respectively withinthe loop 9, the pairs of loops fe, do and be on such needles. The combis then raised to cause the points to pick up the respective loops onthe needles 45-4 3 and lift them clear of these needles. The comb isthen again shifted coursewise leftward a distance of one needle to alignthe points 20-23 with the respective needles I?M. The comb is thendipped to move the points 2ll23 along the needles 11-44 and deposit theloop 9 from the point 2B over the loop h on the needle l1, to depositthe loops 1, e from the point 2! on the vacant needle "5, to deposit theloops (1, c from the point 22 on the vacant needle l5, and to depositthe loops 1), a

from the point 2 3 on the vacant needle I 5, as indicated in line H ofFig. 6, so that if the needles were removed the fell course wouldcontain consecutive groups of gathered loops hg, fe, dc and be, asindicated in Fig. 11.

The comb is then again raised to cause the points to clear the depositedloops and shifted coursewise leftward a distance of one needle so as tobring the point 2!) into alignment with the looped needle 53 and tobring the points 2l-23 and an additional point 24 into action inalignment with the double looped needles |'Il 4respectively. The comb isdipped to move the needles 2024 downward along the needles l8-Hlinclusive within the loops thereon. The comb is then raised to pick upthe loop 1' from the needle I 8, the loops h, g from the needle H, theloops 1, e from the needle Hi, the loops d, c from the needle l5, andthe loops 1), a from the needle M and lift these loops above theneedles. The comb is again shifted coursewise leftward a distance of oneneedle to bring the points fill-2 into alignment Withthe respectiveneedles ill-I5. The comb is dipped to move the points 2lI-24 downwardalong the needles l9 to l 5 and deposit the loop 2' over the loop j onthe needle 19, to deposit the loops h, g on the needle I8, to depositthe loops 1, e on the needle I1, to deposit the loops d, c on the needlel6 and to deposit the loops b, a, on the needle [5, as indicated in lineJ of Fig. 6, so that if the needles were removed the fell course wouldcontain juxtaposed pairs of loops composed respectively of gatheredloops ii, ho, is, do, ba.

Narrowing is continued in the same manner until the course has beensufficiently narrowed to produce a row of narrowing marks extendingcoursewise across the wales substantially on a straight line normal tothe wales and at a sharp angle to the selvage of the fabric, therebyfashioning the fabric in a manner resulting in a sharp bend or curvaturein the wales adjacent to the selvage and a diminishing degree ofcurvature in the wales progressively remote from the selvage.

When the desired narrowing of the fell course has been effected by thecoursewise shifting of the loops into a desired number of consecutivepairs, knitting is resumed by laying a yarn along the looped needles andmoving the needles en masse to draw the new yarn through the loops andgroups of loops on the needles so as to form a new and narrowed course26 which holds the gathered loops together and the pairs or marks injuxtaposition to one another with their centers spaced a distance equalto the center-to-center spacin of the needles. While I have described indetail the narrowing of the fabric inward from one selvage only, it willbe understood that the fabric will usually be narrowed inward in thesame manner from both selvages simultaneously. The lines of marks thusformed simulate the topping on lines of two unit stockings but at asomewhat different angle.

Knitting may be then continued in any usual manner to any desired extentand a subsequent course, close to or remote from the course 25, may benarrowed in the same manner when additional narrowing and fashioning isdesired or required. For example, courses 25 at the end of the heelwidening may be narrowed across the major portions or substantially theentire Widths of the heel reinforced sections of the blank, and theknitting of the foot continued in the usual manner after the course 26has been knit until I the extremity of the toe is reached. The fellcourse of loops forming a terminus of the toe section may be thennarrowed inward from each selvage in the manner illustrated in Figs. 6to 13, inclusive, and the narrowed course held in narrowed condition bya course 26 and one or more seaming courses or raveling courses.

In making two unit stockings, terminal courses 25b of heel tabs may benarrowed in the same manner to impart a curve to the bottom of the heel.The heel tabs are then topped on a footer and the foot section knit inthe usual manner until the extremity of the toe is reached, which maythen be narrowed in the manner described. Either a single unit blank ora two unit blank formed as described may be seamed from toe to weltwithout the need of looping.

It will, of course, be understood that each of the loops a-zi,inclusive, will ordinarily include yarns laid by the main carrier andreenforcing carrier, and that the term "loop includes all the yarns laidby the main carrier and reenforcing carrier and initially looped arounda needle.

- Having described my invention. I claim:'

1 knit fabric stocking blank having loops forming wales and courses andhavingreenioree' d heel and sole sections divided from one another 7 bya row of narrowing marks extending coursewise from substantially theselvages to substantiallythe inner edges of the reenforoed areas, eachnarrowing mark being composed of veriapped loops of adjacent walesaforesaid.

.2. A knit fabric stocking blank having loops forming wales and coursesand having heel and sole sections with substantially flat, unpuckered,areas divided .from one another by rows of he rowing marks each composedof a loop group,each

group being composed of loops of two wales only said rows extendingcoursewise in a substantially straight line normal to the adjacentwales, and said rows each containing at least three adjacent narrowingmarks formed by loops of adjoining wales and extending transversely tothe adjacent edges of the blank. I

3. A knit fabric hosiery blank having loops forming wales and courses ofa reinforced foot section, the loops in pairs of adjacent wales beingoverlapped coursewise on one another and forming at least three adjacentnarrowing marks on each side of the fabric and in the same course andforming a substantially straight coursewise row of narrowing marksextending along a line substantially normal to the adjacent wales andacross a major portion of the reinforced foot section, and a subsequentcourse interlooped with the foregoing course and comprising loopsholding together the loops of the several overlapped groups andnarrowing the'fabric, the overlapped loops of the narrowed course andthe loops of the subsequent course having substantially the same centerto center spacing.

4. A method of narrowing a knit fabric having a course of loops on theneedles of an en masse movable bank which comprises shifting .agroup ofloop-engaging points coursewise step by step along said bank and intoalignment with needles thereof, each successive coursewise movementbeing of uniform extent and bringing an additional needle into alignmentwith a point of said group, dipping and raising said points alongneedles aforesaid after each coursewise shift, lifting one or more loopsfrom the needles by the points after alternate shifts and depositingloops on the needles from the points after intermediate shifts andincreasing by the loops from two Wales the number of loops lifted by thepoints after a shift over the number of loops deposited from the pointsafter aprevious shift.

5, A method of narrowing a knit fabric having a course of loops onneedles of an en masse movable bank which comprises shifting a group ofloop-engaging points coursewise step by step along said bank of needles,each of the successive coursewise shifts being of the same extent andaligning said points with needles aforesaid, dipping and raising saidpoints along needles aforesaid after each coursewise shift toalternately lift loops from needles aforesaid and depositing the liftedloops on other needles aforesaid, the number of needles from which loopsare successively lifted by the points varying in an arithmeticalprogression.

6. A method of narrowing a knit fabric which comprises knitting a webhaving loops forming Wales and courses, shiftingcoursewise-aloop of acourse over an adjoining 'loop to form a narrowing mark, then shiftingcoursewise and in the same direction a loop adjacent to said narrowingmark over anadjoining loop to form a second narrowing mark andsimultaneously shifting coursewise and to a similar extent the loops,forming the'first narrowing mark, and so on successively shiftingcoursewise a loop adjacent to a last formed narrowing mark over anadjacent loop to form an additional narrowing mark and simultaneouslyshifting coursewise in the same direction and to a similar extent theloops constituting the previously formed narrowing marks, and drawing anew course of loops simultaneously through the pairs of loops formingsaid narrowing marks to position the same and substantially narrow thefabric.

'7. A knit fabric having loops forming wales and courses and including acourse containing adjacent groups of overlapped loops forming at leastthree adjoining narrowing marks on each side of the fabric, each groupincluding loops of two wales only, and a course interlooped with saidlast-named course and comprising loops spaced center-to-centersubstantially the same distance as the original center-to-center spacingof said first-named loops before the overlapping thereof and saidsecond-named loops holding together said groups so as to substantiallyhalve the width of the fabric section immediately following theoverlapped loops as compared with the width of the fabric sectionimmediately preceding the overlapped loops.

8. In a method of narrowing a knit fabric having a course of loops onadjacent equidistant needles, the steps'which comprise moving a group ofloop-engaging points coursewise in uniform, successive steps and intoalignment with needles aforesaid, raising and lowering said points tolift and deposit loops aforesaid, said points being devoid of loopsduring alternatecoursewise movements thereof and carrying loopscoursewise during intermediate coursewise movements thereof to grouploops aforesaid, and drawing yarn through adjacent groups to form loopsspaced center-to-center substantially the same'distance as thecenter-to-center spacing of the first-named loops before the coursewiseshifting thereof.

9. The method which. consists in knitting a'flat stocking blank toinclude a half heel portion at each side thereof, progressivelytransferring a group of knitted stitches inwardly from the outer selvageedge of each half heel portion to the extent-of one needle in each of aplurality of successive transfer steps in a single course of stitches ineach half heel portion to foreshorten said course and produce apuckering of the fabric therein, and knitting a course of stitchestosaid foreshortened course.

10. The method of narrowing a knitted fabric while needle loops of asingle course are carried by a series of needles, which comprisesdelivering the loop on the outside needle inwardly onto the nextinwardly positioned needle to form a double loop thereon, simultaneouslydelivering the outermost single loop and the said double loop inwardlyby one needle to form two double loops, simultaneously delivering theoutermost single loop and all of the double loops inwardly each by oneneedle, and repeating the sameaction-until the fabric has been narrowedto the desired extent.

11. In a knitting machine having a series of needles for carrying yarnloops and widthchanging combs for transferring loop laterally fromneedle to needle, the method of changing the width of the knitted fabricbetween successive knitting courses, which comprises moving said combslaterally in cycles and repeating such cycles a plurality of times,each. cycle comprising two movements of each comb in one direction allof said movement being of equal extents, and

causing said combs when moving in one only of the two times in eachcycle to transfer loops from needle to needle.

12. A method of narrowing a knit fabric having a course of loops on theneedles of an en masse movable bank which comprises shifting a group ofloop engaging points coursewise step by step the distance of one needleat a time along said bank and into alignment with needles thereof, eachsuccessive coursewise movement bringing a point aforesaid into alignmentwith an additional needle, dipping and raising said points along needlesaforesaid after each coursewise shift, said points being free of loopsduring certain of their coursewise shifts and carrying loops duringother of their coursewise shifts.

13. In the knitting of fabric on a knitting machine having a series ofneedles for carrying yarn loops and width changing combs fortransferring loops laterally from needle to needle, the method 20 ofchanging the width of the knitted fabric between successive knittingcourses which com- 10 prises moving said combs laterally in cycles andrepeating such cycle a plurality of times, each cycle comprising twomovements of each comb in one direction, all of said movements being ofequal extents, and causing said combs when moving in the first only ofthe two times in each cycle to transfer loops from needle to needle.

STERLING C. MACK.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file ofthis patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date Re. 19,843 Gastrich Feb. 4, 19362,239,593 Crawford Apr. 22, 1941 FOREIGN PATENTS Number Country Date558,301 Great Britain Dec. 30, 1943

